Prayers answered: Sue Strachan finds great cocktails and much more in Charleston (photos courtesy of The Ordinary)
Holy Watering Holes: A Weekend of Cocktails in Charleston
by Sue Strachan
Sometimes, you just have to get out of town and going someplace for the weekend where a friend and a well-made cocktail is waiting for you. For me, that was recently Charleston, where the friend, a cocktail-loving bon vivant, had moved and knew the ins-and-outs of this not-so-sleepy Southern town.
Much had changed since my last trip in 1999 (!) to the “Holy City”: legend has it the name was for the variety of religions that had their places of worship here, starting in the 1700s. Another nickname is “Chucktown,” the city was originally named Charles Town in honor of King Charles II. With 48 hours on my plate, I decided to focus on downtown Charleston (and cocktails.)
Friday
First stop after my arrival in the late afternoon was The Ordinary (544 King St.; eatheordinary.com). My friend wanted cocktails and oysters, without the hassle of a reservation. We lucked out when we walked into the restaurant, which is an old bank, renovated to seamlessly meld old school architecture with a modern, glamorous sensibility. The restaurant says its menu “celebrates the ‘merroir’ of the Coastal Carolinas and the East Coast", focusing on local and regional ingredients and suppliers.
Well, sign me up – we had a diverse array of oysters from South Carolina, and we didn’t forget cocktails. There are impressive options, courtesy of Bar Manager Christian Favier, who integrated a fantastic rum program into the restaurant’s cocktail offerings. So, we decided to try a rum classic — the Ordinary Daiquiri made of Rhum Barbacourt (8 year), dill, fresh and caramelized strawberry and lime — a refreshing take on a classic drink.
If beholden to a favorite cocktail, such as a gin martini, you're in luck, as the bartender made one that was clear, clarifying and crisp. When I asked him to make an Obituary Cocktail — a potent mix of gin, absinthe and vermouth — the bartender switched it up a little bit using an 80/20 saline solution instead of vermouth, a variation that worked well.
Next up on our cocktail journey was The Spectator Hotel (67 State St., thespectatorhotel.com). The bar/lounge area was designed with a 1920s-inspired Prohibition speakeasy feel with subtle lighting and inviting, plush seating, even the bar stools felt right (trust me when I say, not all bar stools are comfortable). I had him make the Obituary Cocktail — perfection, of course — and my friend tried some of the other cocktails including an Aviation and was tempted by the Prone to Whimsy, a combination of Topper’s Rum, Kalani liqueur, coconut water, fresh lime and coconut foam.
Saturday
It was time to kick off the weekend proper with a cocktail, and we headed to Southbound (72 Cannon St., southboundchs.com), where we were treated to the cocktail stylings of Shane Meszaros, director of beverage and hospitality, who also spent some time perfecting his talents in New Orleans. The bar is located upstairs in this converted historic house, and the cocktail offerings are all described in “The little book of drinking pleasures,” with each page dedicated to a single spirit featuring signature and classic cocktails.
While I started with a gin martini, my friend opted for what was originally called Hitler’s Jitters — yes, that Hitler. According to Meszaros, the cocktail — made of Puerto Rican white rum, lime juice, crème de cacao and simple syrup —was invented by bartender Eddie Woelke in the 1930s. “It was created in Venezuela to the delight of American Oil industry workers, and to the chagrin of the extensive network of Nazi sympathizers living there,” wrote Meszaros in an email.
After cocktailing, it was time to switch to more culinary pleasures. South Carolina is renowned for its barbecue and was told that Rodney Scott's Whole Hog BBQ (1011 King St., rodneyscottsbbq.com) was the place to go. The whole hog style BBQ was born out of a friendship between Pitmaster Rodney Scott and Nick Pihakis and their mutual respect for the time and technique required to make great barbecue. Scott was named 2018 Best Chef: Southeast by the James Beard Foundation. Sorelle (88 Broad St., sorellecharlston.com) was the other option. The restaurant was inspired by Italy’s all-day cafes where dishes are made with fresh ingredients and served so guests can enjoy them in a leisurely way. The menu is rooted in Southern Italian culinary enhanced by Low Country ingredients and influences.
Sunday
My last day was rainy, but I still risked walking from King Street and Calhoun streets into the Battery with its views of the harbor and Fort Sumter, best known as the fort the Confederacy fired upon, thereby starting the Civil War in 1861. The architecture was a cohesive mix of Federal, Gothic revival, Colonial, Classical Revival. The structures many associate with the city are called 'single' houses which have the distinctive side porches with the 'front' door leading to the first floor piazza (porches), then to the actual house front door. This style started in 1680 when the residential lots were long and deep with very little frontage on the street; placing the house this way, also facing South, allowed the house to get the most of the harbor breezes.
While walking around I wish I had time for an architecture tour, so next time! When I come back, I was told to take a look at the ones offered from the Preservation Society of Charleston (preservation society.org) including its annual Special Fall Tours (Oct. 9-Nov. 2), which has tours focused on architecture, gardens, history, and a combination of house and garden. Another great option is Walk and Talk Charleston, which showcases home, gardens, as well as tours that focus on the LGBTQ+ community, Black history and ghosts. Two other companies that provide “otherworldly” tours are Bulldog Tours or Buxton Book's Ghost of Charleston Tour.
Walking back towards downtown, I happened upon Magnolia’s (185 East Bay St., magnoliascharleston.com), which from the outside looked like an old-school restaurant. To my rain-drenched self, it was a place to get comfort food and to dry off.
I was right. The restaurant has been in the area for over 30 years and I felt that when I looked around that it was a place where deals are made and celebrated, grand dames hold court and families gather to enjoy the American and Low Country food. I had the fried green tomato BLT, which was crispy and flavorful, but was honestly tempted by the Down South egg roll, a combination of collard greens, chicken, Tasso, red pepper purée, spicy mustard and peach chutney. Be sure to check out their recently released cookbook, 'Magnolia’s Classic Southern Cuisine' by Don Drake.
Alas, my flight was approaching, there was no more exploring or cocktailing, but am looking forward to returning to explore more of this city!
The Ordinary: eattheordinary.com
The Spectator: thespectatorhotel.com
Southbound: southboundchs.com
Where to stay
86 Cannon Historic Inn (86 Cannon St., 86cannon.com) is a jewel-box of a boutique hotel consisting of a complex of three restored historic buildings dating back to the 1860s, and the recently opened pool bungalow, which overlooks a saltwater pool along with two new suites for a total of 10 bespoke rooms and suites. The vision of Charleston residents and owners Marion and Lori Hawkins, the interior has a timeless feel, highlighting architectural features and it is also an adults-only sanctuary. If you're looking to stay someplace new, The Pinch (40 George St., the pinch.com) has 24 rooms designed to feel like guests are staying at an chic apartment instead of a hotel.
SIGN UP FOR THE FREE MONTHLY NEWSLETTER: