The Hotel Modern has a lot going for it.

Streetcar-friendly location. Universally-touted cocktail bar. A parrot squawking at you at check-in. And now, this ‘Modern Southern’ restaurant.

Against all reason, I had an actual date the night we went, and I had also, brazenly, invited a recently-wed couple I know, in part to buy them dinner after not buying them a wedding gift, and in part to show off my non-date personality (how Seinfeldian, I know). It’s quiet so we snag the corner booth, order some crafty cocktails and set about the menu.

Our server – name forgotten, I’m an awful human – is pragmatically enthusiastic and we end up with a bunch of shared entrees, including a stand-up beet salad, duck confit ravioli and the whimsical ‘tots of the day’ because how could you not?

I like that you can see the streetcar trundle by, and the split-level design of the dining room. Cocktails done, we fall seamlessly into some refreshingly cheap sparkling wine. The charcuterie plate is dispensed with after minor skirmishes involving rabbit rillettes (and special mention to the horseradish meringue).

Server banter levels are good, the happy couple seem relaxed and I feel there’s a 75% chance of a repeat date. We eat quite a lot, almost forgetting the entrees. There’s ribs, more rabbit and I get a smoked ham hock that lasts me a couple of more days as leftovers.

More sparkling wine, a reasonable bill, a casually intimate atmosphere and, by the time we leave, I’d say at least a 79% chance of seeing her again.

PO

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Where: CBD/Lee Circle
Food: Modern Southern
Price: Moderate

What you're eating: The charcuterie plate is social and tasty. Drink a cocktail, you're in the right place for it.

Tivoli and Lee website