A streetcar named designer
(Evening Standard, 2004)
New Orleans has always steadfastly refused to become just another anonymous American city. “One does nothing here, it lies in the climate,” said painter Edgar Degas, and the spirit of refined indolence has given rise to some idiosyncratic locales.
As boutique hoteliers and gourmet restaurateurs strike up distinctly bohemian enterprises, it’s time to discover the new-found poise of the business and warehouse districts, and find out why the Garden District has effortlessly become one of the world’s most desirable neighbourhoods. A town where you can watch the sun rise over the West Bank is always going to have its own take on hip, so avoid the clichés of bourbon, beignets and bad jazz - New Orleans now has a touch more southern style.
Loft 523
523 Gravier Street, tel: 504 200 6523
www.loft523.com (standard rooms from USD199 per night, penthouses from
USD349 per night)
The heat and humidity don’t make it past the concierge at the very first all-loft hotel. Urban visionary Sean Cummings has set his 2002 warehouse conversion a small but knowing step back from the French Quarter. Hefty oak columns frame the edgy minimalism of the eighteen 600 square foot bedrooms. Design snobs can relax with the Herman Miller desk chairs and oversized Fortuny lamps, though an exquisitely zen limestone ‘spoon’ bath or an indulgent double-headed shower might provide a dilemma. An understated sanctuary for those with, well, lofty, ideals.
W French Quarter
316 Chartres Street, tel 504 581-1200
www.starwood.com/whotels (King-size bed room: $479 per night, Carriage
house: $650 per night - private balcony)
The intrusive blare of the French Quarter can be as welcome as a wet Mardi Gras, but the living room lobby at this well placed W pulls a velvet curtain across the raucousness. Newly renovated in 2000, the hotel is built around an intimate courtyard and evolved hedonists work on their tans in the cocktail-heavy cocoon. The dreamy signature beds in the 98 rooms are replete with Egyptian cotton, making it easy to give in to the sleepy southern atmosphere. If you can rouse yourself, you can get the best views of the bead-toting tourists, high above them on your private balcony, sipping a Gin Fizz.
August
301 Tchoupitoulas Street., tel 504 299 9777
www.rest-august.com (lunch 11am-2pm, dinner 5.30pm-10pm)
Avoid the power lunch crowd and hit this business district eatery in the evening for some distinct French-Creole elegance. Luckily, formal dining is a relative concept in New Orleans – the mahogany panelling and antique chandeliers do nothing to dampen the energy of this intriguing 1800s building. Urbane foodies trade banter with the waiting staff, marvelling at classic European dishes transformed by the boy from the Bayou - accolade magnet and native son John Besh. The taster menu (from USD60) offers a seasonally rich world of delights, such as foie gras and veal, the chatty somellier always on hand to refill your glass with another hit from their sensational cellar, which looms above you impressively in the dining room.
Lemongrass
217 Camp Street, tel: 504 523 1200
www.lemongrassrest.com (lunch 11am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm-11pm)
The French connection reconciles Lousiana with Vietnam, and local dishes politely submit to the Asian influence. Steel and frosted glass provide a surprisingly refreshing respite from the button-down business district, and commerce loosens its tie in the company of gossiping fashionistas and modish entrepreneurs. Chef Minh Bui challenges the butter and cayenne pepper monopoly of local cuisine, introducing oysters to wasabi leek confit and their fish to crispy bird nest (entrees from USD17). Shopping trips and bar hopping cannot be fuelled by gumbo alone, after all.
Columns
3811 St Charles Avenue, tel: 504 899 9308
www.thecolumns.com
There isn’t a less arduous journey than up St Charles Avenue. The breezy streetcar glides through into the residential splendour of the Garden District, all wrought iron and intricate balconies. The Columns has fitted right in since 1883, all looming pillars and overhead fans, as if it could stage Tennessee Williams conventions. The dark carved mahogany of the fancy Victorian lounge even teases out a southern drawl from the city slickers. If you spent the morning perfecting your sultriest look, you’ll have missed the charming brunch. Feigning disappointment, feint back onto a chaise longue and have someone bring you a restorative Mint Julep to revive your wilting spirit (cocktails from USD7).
Lounge Lizards
200 Decateur Street, tel: 504 598 1500
No cover charge / 24 hours
When the sleazy draw of the French Quarter proves irresistible, those with more eclectic tastes know to skip the vulgar roar of Bourbon Street. Decateur Street runs parallel, and is an alternate universe for those in the know. A hipster cross-section of sophisticates taking in punks to poseurs meets in this intimate venue that is cool but not cliquey. Nightly live music includes passing rock bands and the odd stray jazz legend from the uber-touristy House of Blues across the street. It’s not good to look too eager in New Orleans, so slip in at midnight – that way you stand a good chance of greeting the dawn with one of their expertly rendered Bloody Marys (cocktails from USD6).
Mignon Faget
Galleries include: Canal Place, Canal Street, tel: 504 524 2973 and
3801 Magazine Street, tel: 504 891 2005
www.mignonfaget.com
Born and raised in this very city, Ms Faget caters for those who like their fashion accessories to double as objets d’art. Her mission is to “reduce nature’s forms to the least common denominator”, and whatever else that means, she produces discreet but remarkable exclusive jewellery. From her neo-classical workspace on Magazine Street, award winning creations grace many a tastefully-attired local. Unpretentious and intelligent, Faget is the perfect addition for honouring your invitation to the debutante’s ball, or can simply be a conversation piece at that dinner party in the Garden District.
Ogden Museum of Southern
Art
925 Camp Street, tel: 504 539 9600
Tues – Sun, times vary. Adults USD10, Children USD5 / www.ogdenmuseum.org
If you thought southern art was all horseshoe motifs and studies in gingham, then think again. The warehouse district has designs on becoming the arty district in town, and took a major step with this 2003 opening. Freestanding staircases take you up through the bright sandstone building, as the critical themes of southern culture reveal themselves. The brash colour photography of William Egglestone mixes with the manic collage of Benny Andrews. Most works are looking to tell a story about southern identity, and it’s one that would have even the high fallutin’ Manhattan art critics take a second look through their black-rimmed glasses.
Maple Leaf Bar
8316 Oak Street, tel: 504-866-9359
Cover charge: USD3-USD10, 3pm to dawn daily.
Being the home of Jazz has its drawbacks – namely the huge number of tourist-ridden rip offs. Three words: Harry Connick SENIOR. The local cognoscenti steer well clear and keep the atmosphere at this tin-walled joint just the right side of stifling. Originally a chess club, now the best moves are from sharp-suited slicksters who know to venture uptown. Feel the distilled soul of the Rebirth Brass Band or any one of the big jazz hitters that happen by, or catch authentic Cajun and Zydeco musicians in the annex bar. The party can break out into the street, time for you to hang back on the candlelit patio and sip something cool – chin stroking strictly unnecessary.
Body Joys
3423 St Charles Avenue, tel 504 895 4400
Tues 9am-6pm, Wed & Thurs 9am- 8pm, Fri & Sat 9am- 5pm. / www.bodyjoys.com
In a town where voodoo is still practised, perhaps the best magic of all is the restoration of your natural glow after you’ve been hitting the 24 hour bars. This Garden District Spa brings hi-tec restorative treatments to the sleepy environs. The high priestesses of health can revive jaded party animals with their signature sea salt body scrub, and a champagne lunch is on hand if you feel your alcohol levels are dipping dangerously low (Half Day package with lunch USD170, individual treatment prices vary). Gentle souls who only venture outside under the shade of their parasol can indulge in a Fantasy Tan treatment, colouring delicate complexions without harmful UV. Sunburn is so uncouth, after all.