Smiles and styles
(Evening Standard, 2003)
One night in Bangkok. Makes the tough guys crumble, apparently. Was this the reason that the Posh n’ Becks Asian roadshow sidestepped staying in the Thai capital this week? If they’d have taken a second look, they’d have found enough designer attractions to keep even the world’s most fashion-conscious couple in admiring glances, for a season or two, at least…
Conrad Hotel
All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road. Tel: +66 2690 9000 / www.conradhotels.com
(Standard Rooms from UKP90 per night)
In January 2003, the Conrad’s 32 storeys shot up in the newly fashionable business district, creating a buzz about “funky commerce”. The dark hardwood of three-floor atrium lobby offers a cooling respite, as do the famed eponymous cocktails of their Diplomat Bar. Linen suits break off from conference calls to admire the contemporary sculpture, all obsidian bronze meteors and playful carved elephants. In the 392 rooms, glass-walled bathrooms let you take in the morning sun as you prepare for a hard morning’s leisure at the seventh-floor pool terrace.
Bed Supper Club
26 Sukhumvit Soi 11. Tel: +66 2 651 3537/www.bedsupperclub.com
Open daily from 7.30pm
The UFO building is hard to miss, like the mother ship just touched down in downtown Bangkok. The split-level interior is straight out of 2001: A Space Odyssey, frictionless-looking white curves seating equally sleek diners. American chef Dan Iverie serves up a set menu of Thai fusion delicacies such as baby lobster (dishes from around THB700) - dinner reservations usually require some foresight. Vintage t-shirts compete with cocktail dresses to recline on the overlooking landing, bobbing their heads to rare hip-hop and future-retro grooves.
Emporium Shopping
Centre
Sukhumvit Soi 24 (Sky Train: Phrom Pong)
Since 1999, the city’s Sky Train has soared above the brutal Bangkok traffic, a one-way track through the doors of Thailand’s new spirit of glamorous consumerism. Alight at Phrom Pong station and exit onto the third floor of this glinting temple to affluent living. The prices may seem familiar, but the service is typically obliging as Louis Vuitton, Versace and Calvin Klein all vie for your attention. At this relaxed pace, you can afford to hang around and be seen as you set down your bags at one of the chi-chi cafes.
Art At Play
114/5, Silom Soi 4. Tel +66 2632 8767 / www.artatplay.com
In the heart of Silom nightlife district, a techno-chic shop front houses one of the city’s newest galleries, computer screens flickering amongst the canvasses as you browse. Its inaugural exhibition in February 2003 featured brightly-coloured conceptual work from young Thai artists that could provide you with a commanding centrepiece for your loft conversion from an eminently reasonable THB5,500-9,000. No need to mention the price to your friends back home, though.
Q Bar
34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, Klongtoey. Tel: +66 2252 3274 / www.qbarbangkok.com
Lively precursor to the Bed Supper Club, and almost its antithesis – where BSC has light, Q Bar has dark. Where BSC has poise, Q Bar has energy. Eclectic urban fashions meet to trade dance moves on smokily intimate floors whilst James Lavelle provides the soundtrack. Lead weight cocktail menus (prices start at around THB250) bring new meaning to ‘extensive’, but the kids know to go for Bangkok Iced Tea – Red Bull, not cola. Potentially sensitive liaisons can go unnoticed on the suitably shadowy roof terrace.
Banyan Tree Hotel
21/100 South Sathorn Road, Sathon. Tel : +66 2285 0746 / www.banyantree.com/bangkok
(Suites from around UKP250 per night)
This all-suite hotel resembles a steel and concrete monolithic grandfather clock, towering over the busy Chao Phraya river by the business district. The Vertigo Restaurant, the highest open air bar and grill in the world, seems a suitably lofty place to dine among the windswept honeymooners and local high-flyers. Barbecued Red Mullet, champagne and the best views in the city delay you as 61 storeys below, your personal shopper, as provided by the hotel, pulls their car round to the lobby and awaits you and your credit card.
Zenith Tailors
A moment of panic as a stubborn acquaintance reveals that they plan to wear an identical outfit to your own showstopper at tomorrow’s cocktail reception. Bangkok is a city of bespoke tailors, many on the high street being your proverbial stitch-up merchants. Zenith can help you retain your individuality. One fitting later, and a customised Valentino-esque dinner suit is yours the next day, along with your sartorial integrity, for around THB10,000. Jealous eyes may wonder just which designer they’ve missed out on.
Eat Me
1/6 Piphat Soi Piphat 2, Convent Rd. Tel +66 2238 0931
There’s nothing wrong with a little faux-hemian flirt with the arty crowd. This Aussie-Thai restaurant has an untypically (for Bangkok) reasonable wine list (most around THB1,000) and the local Tracey Emins scrawl away with the on-table crayons, a nod to resurgent 80s chic. Fire up your pretentious art patter to discuss the constantly-changing gallery paintings that line the walls. The coolest people may pretend to be resolutely unimpressed, and take their Pumpkin Soup and Phuket Lobster (dishes THB200-800) out to the terrace.
Grande Spa
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel, 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: +66 2653 0282
(from THB1,300 for 25 minute express treatments)
Jetlagged new arrivals and wilting partygoers populate the eleven elegant treatment rooms, the scent of lemongrass permeating the intricate wood carved interiors. Chances are they’ll be submitting themselves to the signature treatment, the Herbal Grande Pound. An hour and a half and THB2,500 later, the therapist will have pounded the hot poultice, loaded with Camphor Lemongrass, Turmeric and 17 Thai herbs all over their bodies. Tensions gone, the celebrity gossip can continue with renewed energy around the Jacuzzi.
Radio City
Patpong 1, off Silom Road. Tel: +66 2266 4567 (open to 2am, free)
A night off trying to impress, and somewhere to retain your poise in seedy Patpong. On stage, a convincing Vegas-style Elvis enthrals the audience of slouching, loose-tied city workers and fans of kitsch. Tom Jones’ era is harder to discern, but close your eyes and you can forget the bad mullet and black polo neck. Delilah has the audience singing at full pelt, spectators filling the split level bar. Afterwards, the house band plays upbeat pop, and feisty waitresses deliver tray after tray of Sambuca shooters as you spill into the night and wave down your tuk-tuk.