(The Daily Mail, 2004)

Not that mere states have much business being bigger than actual countries, New South Wales, the most populated Australian state, still manages to nonchalantly weigh in at twice the size of Britain, even though it boasts only a tenth of our population.

Anyone looking for excursions out of Sydney, that state’s most visited city, could find that limited time coupled with the prohibitive distances involved might restrict the choice somewhat. After all, there are the Blue Mountains, the northern beaches, the outback and the wine-making regions all waiting to be explored, so knowing which direction to take could leave you up a bit of a sightseeing gum tree.

For those that want to have their bush tucker and eat it too, though, a new tour has arrived that really gives you wings. The so-called Air Safari operated by Australia by Air aims to present the very best of New South Wales’ diverse charms, and what’s more, they only need a single day to do it.

Australia by Air founder and owner Ben Bowley grew up in outback Australia, earning his wings in the early nineties. In 2002, piloting a family trip out to a remote sheep station convinced Ben that this was the way to see the country. Within months, Ben had resigned as a Managing Director for Apple Computers and a new venture was born.

Ben organises the early morning hotel pick-ups in his mini-bus, and drives us to the air base just outside the city. He mostly takes a tour guide role these days, delegating piloting duties so that he’s free to answer questions without breaking his concentration – a reassuring bit of teamwork for those dubious of small planes.

There are six of us, still waking up with fresh coffee and perusing the route map. “It doesn’t look too far,” says one of my co-passengers. In terms of the size of New South Wales, it does look as if we’ll just be circling a small section of it. Then you realise it would take you four or five days by car, and thirty minutes later, the western suburbs disappearing underneath you, you’re more than happy to be airbound.

After about half an hour, civilisation has all but disappeared, and we’re flying over one of Australia’s best known tourist trails. The Blue Mountains are part of the Great Dividing Range, slicing down the East coast of Australia, and are a popular weekend retreat for Sydney-siders. Named after the colour given off by the hazy vapours of the eucalyptus trees which grow in abundance there, the peaks are famed for sights such as the Three Sisters outcrop, usually only reachable via some serious time behind the wheel.

In the air, though, the once impassable barrier is laid out before us. The wings dip for a close up view, the jagged, untamed bush jutting through the oily mist and defiantly stretching out past the horizon. Luckily for the photo album, the twin-engined plane is agile and everyone gets a window seat.

Our first touchdown is Scone, the horse capital of Australia according to the signs at the airport, which is in reality little more than a grass strip with an outhouse. A day and a half by road, less than two hours by air.

We’re met by Alan ‘Hendo’ Henderson and his wife Suzanne, charismatic outbackers who live with 6,000 sheep and assorted other wildlife on rural Middlebrook station. They’ve been giving guests a window into their family run farm for a few years now, though as living on a farm goes, it’s more like having Hampshire to yourself than, say, a yard with a few chickens and a field of cows out the back.

Hendo is the living definition of a True Blue Aussie, outspoken but instantly likeable, and a believer that pitting yourself against the constant challenges of the land gives you the right to certain opinions. The immediate landscape, for instance. “I say let it burn!” he responds to concerns about bush fires. Incendiary is quite an appropriate description for his character.

First on the agenda is a tour of part of Alan and Suzanne’s back garden, a minor jaunt that takes little more than an hour or so. Hendo swears at the wild roos that dart in and out of the scrub, and we pass fields of the Arabian stallions which are privately jetted in once a year to turn their attentions to up to 120 mares – quite a lifestyle for a horse, when you think about it.

Back at the ranch, Hendo treats us to both a sheepdog display and his views on the New South Wales drought situation. “Personally, I can’t wait for the dam levels to go down further.” he says, deftly controlling his canine herders. “Life’s far too easy in this country!” It’s hard to tell through the whistles and shouts if he’s kidding or not. It’s like One Man and His Dog presented by Norman Tebbit. His attitudes to the environment, humans and the otherwise cute creatures that destroy his livelihood are probably best summed up as ‘tough love’.

Meanwhile, a gourmet barbie has been prepared and we sit down to the kind of outdoor culinary experience that antipodeans do best, with snags and grog fighting for space with stuffed olives and fine wines at a heaving long table outside the homestead.

There’s just time to hear Hendo arguing that owning a fully operational Gattling Gun would help him control the local kangaroo population, though you suspect the surrounding landscape might take a few more hits than the rampant Joeys.

Leaving Middlebrook behind and Hendo to his vermin control, the next port of call is the vineyards of the Hunter Valley, the most famous wine producing region in New South Wales. We touch down an hour or so later at Cessnock airport, and are met by a local grape guide for some virtuoso viticulture.

There are over 100 wineries and cellar doors in the Hunter Valley, spread out over 4,500 acres of vines. Since we only have a couple of hours to pamper our palates, it’s a relief to have someone who can take us straight to the action, whilst allowing plenty of time to enjoy the fantastic landscaped and natural views along the way.

Hardy’s and Lindemans are among the bigger names resident in the valley, and in addition to the varieties that make it onto our supermarket shelves, there are chances at the less well known producers to taste newer wines such as Verdelho and Chambourcin.

We stop off at the up and coming Pepper Tree Winery, where the award winning bottles include classics such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc Semillon.

Over a quiet glass in the glorious sunshine of the lush valley, Ben tells me how happy he is to have quit the rat race and to be spending his time showing off the country he loves, and you don’t really need much persuading. It’s hard to imagine him in the boardroom having seen him in the outback.

His best memories are of taking a break from his rise up the corporate ladder in 1995, when he and wife Megan toured Australia, often hiring light aircraft to visit remote spots. It was here in these idyllic moments that the seeds for an air touring company were sown.

Samples quaffed and cases of favourites bought, it’s time for the return leg. Coinciding nicely with the sun setting is a low-level pass over the dramatic New South Wales coastline.

Approaching Sydney from the north, we’re a mere 500 feet above the cliffs, the ideal place for watching the dramatic wave breaks and spying Sydney’s northern beaches. The familiarity to Ben of what is essentially his journey home from work doesn’t stop him enthusing over the landmarks. If only going home from the office was always like this.

That said, the office in question is a little more spectacular than most. Past the surfing havens of Long Reef and Manly, the plane approaches Sydney Harbour as darkness hits, and there are still a final couple of circuits of the city by twilight to enjoy - the Harbour Bridge, the Opera House and the lights of the Central Business District providing the grand finale.

Incurable romantics can even plump for just this final leg of the trip, and whisk the object of their affections away for a candlelit a la carte dinner in wine country before wowing them with the knockout views on the return. As impressive gestures go, it would be hard to beat, though it might be difficult to whisper sweet nothings in ears clad with a pair of cockpit headphones.

We arrive back in the city in good time for a night on the town, though most of the group look happily exhausted. Having just enjoyed front row seats at some of the grandest displays of wilderness the country has to offer, soon enough we’re fighting the traffic again, rattling around one way systems and exposed to the urban clamour. And Hendo thinks that city dwellers have it easy? He really should try living here sometime.

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